WR in the So. Marquesas

For a couple of days after our arrival we mostly rested and I checked in with the local gendarme while we waited for Susan to arrive. On the day of her arrival I walked to Pension Kanahau, where she had booked a bungalow, and met Tania, who was to become a large factor in our stay at Atuona. She took me to the airport, which is situated on the ridge which is the backbone of the island, and gave me a lei to give to Susan. That evening she served the first of many excellent dinners. We stayed there just two nights but had dinner there five nights. She would drive us between the boat, her place, town, and restaurants. Tom and I had birthdays on adjacent days, so she made a large cake and gave each of us a very nice shirt. She introduced us to poisson cru, raw fish marinated in lime juice and coconut milk served with marinated vegetables, and various fruits including pamplemousse, similar to grapefruit but larger and sweeter. Just before we set sail she gave us bananas, pamplemousse, and pumpkin. We left Tom and Judy (who flew in after Susan) to enjoy Hiva Oa and Moorea before flying home.

One night in the anchorage in Atuona we were awakened at 2 am by the arrival of the Aranui 3, the monthly supply boat that serves all of French Polynesia. The bright lights and rattling anchor chain woke us, and since the boat is large and we were in the front rank of sailboats anchored around its turning basin, we were very attentive. Later, through Tania, the chief engineer, who is from Romania and who oversaw the construction of the boat there, invited several of us aboard for a tour. We saw staterooms for passengers, lounges and dining areas, a swimming pool, and the bridge with very modern controls. From there I took a photo of WR appearing very small far below.

The islands here are mountainous with steep sides plunging into the sea. They are very green with a variety of vegetation including coconut and banana trees. The people are friendly without being pushy. Besides French, they speak a polynesian language which differs from that spoken in the No. Marquesas and when written seems to consist largely of vowels and apostrophes with a thin sprinkling of consonants.

When we left Atuona we headed south past Isle Motane to Fatu Hiva and anchored in Hanavave Bay. This place is punctuated by rugged volcanic towers. The village is neat with concrete streets and many flowers. We hiked to a high waterfall behind the town. This island is now the only place where tapas are made. This is a cloth made by beating thin the bark from banyan and a couple of other trees then painting it with traditional designs. We purchased two as well as an excellent wood carving from the local rosewood. This kind of stuff is available in Tahiti but at much higher prices.

After three nights at Hanavave we left Wed. 3/27, sailing on a reach halfway until the wind first turned, then died. We motored the rest of the way to our present anchorage in Baie Hanatefau on the west coast of Tahuata. Tomorrow we plan to go to Baie Hanamoenoa which has a white sand beach and is further north along this coast. From there we will probably head for Ua Pou in the No. Marquesas.

Kit and Susan